embeetravels

Ulua Beach

2012-01-31T21:08:00.001-08:00

A beach day today, this time only a short distance away; Ulua is a beautiful little beach with a rocky point to snorkel around. Unfortunately a hotel was being renovated 500 yards away - the sound of jackhammers and excavators tends to shatter the serenity.

We were there by 8:00 a.m. and got the second to last parking space in the tiny lot. As the mornings have the sun and calm water it's the best time to swim and snorkel. Brad went out quite far, and not only saw a green sea turtle but also a manta ray!
Photo by bnboly via Flickr

Haleakala: from sea level to 10,000+ feet and back in a day

2012-01-30T23:15:00.001-08:00

We left the dry side of the island in the early morning, and soon the road started climbing; the landscape changed from sugar cane fields to green pasture land, with sheep, cattle and horses. Once in Haleakala National Park, the road was one set of switchbacks after another. Our first stop was at a lookout and short trail with interpretive signs; before it became a park, cattle roamed, as well as sheep, goats and deer. Park workers spent 10 years putting up over 50 miles of fencing to keep out wandering animals and allow the vegetation to grow back.
The road continued to climb, with more hairpin turns, and the higher we went there were fewer plants and shrubs, and more and more rocks. I saw a ring necked pheasant beside the road; they were introduced as game birds.
By the time we got to the top we had on many layers of clothing; despite the sunshine, the wind made it cold. We went on a ranger walk on the Sliding Sands trail and learned many things: only insects live up that high - a flightless moth and wolf spiders that have lost the ability to spin webs - they eat bugs that are blown in by the wind. A petrol bird nests in the lava rocks - it comes back to the same burrow every year to lay one egg - that's the only time it comes onto land.
We walked a ways further down the trail into the crater - it really did look like a lunar landscape - the walk back up was slower due to the altitude, which you really feel - rangers told us you get 30% less oxygen at that elevation. The guidebook says "the 37 mile drive from sea level to the 10,023' summit of Haleakala is the highest elevation gain in the shortest distance anywhere in the world."

The views from the top were amazing: the 7 mile wide crater, or eroding valley as it's called, the clouds, the light and colours on the rocks - it was all just stunning.
Photo by Nevin75 via flickr

A day at the beach

2012-01-29T21:46:00.000-08:00

We went south to Malu'aka beach; as we arrived, a large group of serious swimmers in Speedos were getting ready, pulling on swim caps and adjusting goggles - several told us that they meet every Sunday morning to swim a mile down the coast and back - some only swim one way - there were at least 30 of them, with three kayakers.

Later we drove a few miles further; the road changed from a narrow twisty 2 lane one, to a bumpy narrow road over a lava field, where if you met another car, one of you had to find a place to pull over, as far as possible, to let the other pass. The road ends at La Perouse Bay, where you can either hike on a trail over lava rock, or explore the tidal pools.

On our way back we stopped at a food truck for fish tacos, and watched multi-coloured birds nearby; I saw a mongoose - they were introduced here to control rats, but now eat the eggs of ground nesting birds...

Photo by la favelafave via Flickr

On Maui time

2012-01-28T21:30:00.000-08:00

Waking up to sunshine and birdsong is a real treat after the snow and ice at home. We're on the dry side of the island, the leeward side, and have spent some time getting our bearings, stocking up on groceries and beverages, walking on the beach and relaxing and reading by the pool. Last night there was an Art Walk in Lahaina, so after dinner at Bubba Gump Shrimp Company we checked out some of the shops and galleries. In one there were paintings and prints by Anthony Hopkins - who knew he's an artist as well as an actor?

The flowers here are delightful of course, like this hibiscus.
(photo by rustytanton via Flickr cc)

Greenwood

2011-08-10T21:46:00.000-07:00

We drove to Nelson for a few days, and on the way stopped in the small town of Greenwood. It started as a mining town in 1897 and still has a smelter smokestack and many old brick buildings. In fact the cafe where we had coffee was originally the assay office; it was used in the movie Snow Falling on Cedars.

Last day at the ranch

2011-04-29T20:07:00.000-07:00

The last day came up quickly, and was another full day, this time of roping, branding a calf, and barrel racing.

We were lucky to have Joel Eliot with us for the week, and were in awe of how easy he made roping look.

Mounted shooting

2011-04-28T19:57:00.000-07:00

We learned to rope, move cattle, tried team penning (harder than it looks!), went on some trail rides, and spent the whole of Thursday on mounted shooting. We strapped on holsters, and walked, then trotted the course, "dry firing" at the balloons, to get the hang of it, and the feel of the guns. You have to use single action Colt 45's or replicas, which means you have to pull the hammer back each time you fire the gun; this is tricky when you have small hands.

After lunch we took turns riding 3 horses (only a few are trained and able to handle the loud noise) through the course at a lope; you have two guns with 5 shells each, to shoot the10 balloons on the course. So at the half way point you're putting the first gun back in the holster, getting the second one out as you turn around a barrel, and getting that hammer back to shoot the first balloon on the straightaway home. Those balloons come up quickly when you're loping!

Cowgirl Camp

2011-04-25T19:45:00.000-07:00

There were eight of us at Cowgirl Camp, level II, held at the Double E Guest Ranch in New Mexico. The first day was spent getting oriented, and in the arena getting used to our horses. Though cool in the mornings, once the sun came up over the hills it was warm and got into the 80's every day.

A day in Havana

2011-03-11T19:30:00.000-08:00

After a two hour bus ride we were in Havana for a busy day tour. The first stop was the old part of the city, and we walked for several hours through small streets, across plazas, into a hotel where Hemingway had stayed; we toured a cigar factory, had lunch in a lovely old hotel restaurant, and went to a rum museum. After hearing all about the production of rum, and the different kinds made, we were ushered into a bar and offered a taste, before exiting through the gift shop.

Escape from the rain

2011-03-10T19:23:00.000-08:00

We decided to take advantage of a last minute deal and book a trip to Cuba, so off we went, and after a 6 hour flight, were in Varadero at our hotel by 8 a.m. The resort was right on the beach, so we had the choice of swimming in the ocean, or in one of several pools. It was entertaining watching the kiteboarders out on the water.

Back to the rainforest

2010-09-24T21:25:00.000-07:00

Ten miles up the road from Twisp is a Western themed town called Winthrop, and we had to stop for a quick look at the western style buildings and check out the Rocking Horse bakery cafe. We then headed West on Highway 20 over the North Cascades. Just out of Winthrop we were beside the Methow river, with lots of pine trees, deer beside the road, and horses grazing in pastures. The road climbed higher and higher, and we were surprised to see snow on the mountain peaks as we went through Washington Pass, elevation 5,477 feet.
Down the other side we passed the Ross dam, and finally were in the Skagit valley, beside the river, where people in boats, and on the shore, were fishing. It was raining, the maple trees were yellow and orange, we could see moss on trees and cabin roofs, and lichen (old man's beard) hanging from the biggest trees. It felt like home and we knew we were back in the Pacific Northwest.
With only a five minute wait at the border, we were home by three; the cats were waiting on the back porch!
We had a great trip we're calling the canyon tour; thanks for following along - that's all for now - until next time!

The tiny town of Twisp

2010-09-23T21:25:00.000-07:00

We left Kennewick WA reasonably early and headed west, passing corn fields and vineyards, then stopping in Ellensburg for coffee (I want a GPS that tells you when you're nearing a Starbucks!). We headed north up 97, and over the mountains, enjoying the Ponderosa pine forests. It started to rain lightly near the town of Cashmere; the road followed the Wenatchee river and we could see that both pears and apples were being harvested.

Shortly after the town of Monitor we crossed Easy Street (honest!) and the road followed the Columbia river - the landscape looked much like our Okanagan. We took a smaller road up the Methow valley and stopped at the town of Twisp - it's very small, about 3 blocks long. We found a room at the Inn, a charming B & B that was once the hotel in town. The town sprang up during a mining boom, and sits at the confluence of the Methow and Twisp rivers.
We explored the town, checking out the various metal sculptures, galleries, had a delicious dinner at the pub - a microbrewery, - then walked down to the river. Had a fun evening in front of the fire talking with the others staying here.

Still sunny but cooler...

2010-09-22T20:37:00.000-07:00

Yesterday we left Moab early and headed west on I 70; as the scenery wasn't too inspiring, we listened to our story: we have a library copy of The Lost Symbol (by Dan Brown), on CD - we only listen to it on travel days, when there's not too much to look at, and when there isn't an important junction coming up. That last rule was instituted after we missed an exit because the story was so riveting; we had to go five miles down the highway before we could get off and turn around!
It was easier driving through Salt Lake City in the early afternoon, rather than at rush hour, which had been the case on our way down. We made it to Twin Falls, on the Snake river in Idaho, before stopping for the night.
Today we gained an hour soon after we arrived in Oregon, as we'd left Mountain time behind in Idaho. We stopped in Baker City to walk around the Historic District in the centre of town. At every corner there was a scarecrow and stalks of corn. We sure laughed when we read the posters for the Great Salt Lick Contest!

Though it was sunny, there was a hint of Fall in the air, and we realized we won't be able to put on shorts and sandals every morning, for much longer...
Signs we enjoyed today: Echo 1 mile; Black Cat Road.

Brad and the blue buffalo

2010-09-20T21:22:00.000-07:00

Brad rides the Blue Buffalo trail

This morning Brad went with a local guide on a "challenging and inspiring" mountain bike ride up some rocky terrain, over some slickrock, and along a mesa rim. From there they had a view of the valley and could even see some features in Arches National Park, in the distance. They stopped to admire some petroglyphs, one of which was a blue buffalo.
Back in town, I toured the local shops; later we took in the local Museum of Moab, which has some great exhibits on the history of the area, which was first settled by a few cattle ranchers, and then uranium was discovered, and things really started booming. They have a travelling exhibition at the moment, from the Smithsonian, called New Harmonies, on American Roots music.
Across the street, there was some public art beside city hall, from the Puma Project the sign said.

A blue puma beside City Hall

Now it's time to pack up and get ready to head out in the morning; we've enjoyed our time here and would like to come back - there's lots to see and do!

Arches, windows and petroglyphs

2010-09-19T21:09:00.000-07:00

Balanced Rock

After a short bike ride along the river, we headed up into Arches National Park, just a few miles north of Moab. Our first stop was at Balanced Rock: a huge boulder perched atop a pedestal about 50 feet high. This would have started out as a sandstone fin, then erosion created an arch or window, more erosion caused the arch to collapse, leaving the pedestal, with a rock on top.

North and South Windows

Petroglyphs near Wolfe Ranch

Next stop was at the North and South windows, where we walked out around them; a ranger was reminding people to stay on the paths, that yesterday a fellow went out among the brush to get a photo, and was bitten by a rattlesnake - he was taken by helicopter to hospital, where he's still recovering. Needless to say, we were very careful to stay right on the paths. Our last stop was at the Wolfe ranch, which is really only two tiny one room cabins. It's hard to imagine a family living in the high desert in a small log cabin with one window and one door. We walked further along to see the petroglyphs carved in the rock by Ute Indians; as some figures are on horseback, these date to some time after the Ute people acquired horses from the Spanish.

River rapids and cowboy songs

2010-09-18T20:40:00.000-07:00

We went on a raft trip down the Colorado river today. First we got in an old Bluebird bus pulling the raft on a trailer, and drove the narrow winding route that goes up the valley - it was rather slow going as the Century bike tour was starting out and our driver had to pass cyclists on the road (no shoulder or bike path). We made it the 26 miles upstream from Moab and got the raft in the water.

The river is fairly low at this time of year, but we still had some level I and II rapids. At one spot we jumped in for a swim, which was wonderful since it was so hot (the high has been 97 - 99 degrees F. each day so far). We saw buttes and red rock formations, canyon walls and heard stories from our guide about those jeep and car commercials they film from helicopters. It was a really good trip.
This evening we went to a free program in town; musician Hal Cannon showed a 16 minute version of his documentary Why the Cowboy Sings, then played the guitar, mandola and harmonica, sang and told stories of collecting old cowboy songs. He's associated with the Western Folklife Center. We really enjoyed his toe tapping music.

On the road again: Northeast

2010-09-16T21:59:00.000-07:00

We took the scenic drive east from Bryce Canyon on Route 12; it drops in elevation and soon we were in the town of Tropic - so named because with some irrigation, the climate was favourable for fruit trees and growing alfafa and other crops. It was a lovely winding drive through valleys with fields and trees; soon though we were climbing up again, into a semi-arid area, and saw a sign for Hell's Backbone road. Luckily we didn't need to take it and followed the highway up to the town of Torrey, named for the Torrey pines in the area.

The Rabbitbush likes a hot climate

It was around Hanksville that the scenic portion of the route ended and the vast dry sandy moonscape started; it made us check the gas gauge to make sure we weren't going to get stranded. We crossed the Dirty Devil river, and not too much later crossed the Colorado river and arrived in Moab.
We didn't realize that it's still high season here, so with both a nearby Melon festival and a Skinny Tire Century bike tour happening this weekend, finding a place to stay took awhile. What we found though is very comfortable, and we're happy to be settled in one place for five nights.
We attended at talk and photo presentation by Grant Collier, a local photographer; he showed some amazing photos taken in nearby Arches National Park; he hikes off the beaten path and takes photos just after sunrise, around sunset and at night when there's a full moon; we really enjoyed his georgeous pictures.

Warning: Dangerous Cliffs!

2010-09-15T22:29:00.000-07:00

We were at the campground bus stop right at 0915 for our free 3 hour guided bus tour to Rainbow Point (elevation 9,115') in Bryce National Park. We hopped on, and our driver and guide drove the big bus with one hand and held his microphone with the other. As we went along he told us all about the origins of the park and the fellow it was named after: Ebenezer Bryce. Quite a character himself, he finally introduced himself and told us he hadn't done it sooner so as not to scare us - we would be seeing signs about dangerous Cliffs!
At Rainbow Point we got out and walked the trails - saw a Bristlecone pine tree - also called a bottlebrush tree - it was 12' tall and 150 years old - these trees can live to be 1500 years old! From Rainbow point we could see Navaho Mountain 80 miles away to the East, and to the South, on the horizon, the North Rim on the Grand Canyon.

Wild Blue Flax flower

On the way back, between stops to see various viewpoints and hoodoos, Cliff regaled us with the "true" story of Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, who had roamed Utah (and Wyoming and other states), hiding in various canyons after their bank robberies.

Cliff points South

Wall Street in Utah?

2010-09-14T21:30:00.000-07:00

Chipmunk hoping for a treat

We hiked from the rim down a trail into the hoodoos, admiring the various colours and formations. As we went south there were more pine trees, and we sat down for a snack. From way up a hillside a chipmunk came running to see if we would share; he was very cute and soon a lot of photographers stopped, hoping he would stay still for a good picture.
The trail turned back towards the rim, was more uphill and soon we were in the narrow slot canyon they call Wall Street. It was incredible. Closer to the top there were many switchbacks on the trail, and more viewpoints.

Ranger Gary

Later we were back in the area for a Rim Walk with Ranger Gary, who we think is Dustin Hoffman's twin. He was delightful and informative and we learned about the Limber Pine, which grows on the cliff edge and has very flexible branches to cope with the wind. He also talked about the geology, the plants and pointed out evidence of lightening strikes on nearby trees.

Heading to the hoodoos

2010-09-13T15:25:00.000-07:00

Sunset Point hoodoos

We left the North Rim of the Grand Canyon and headed north again, stopping for lunch once more in Kanab. So many Western movies have been filmed there that they have signs around town with photos and info on various actors who've been in town and when. On our previous visit we parked near a sign for Maureen O'Hara; this time it was a male actor. We enjoyed the signs in town: RV Corral, the Stage Stop (for a gas station store), and a poster for a Flu Shoot-out (flu clinic).
We drove north to the turn-off for Bryce Canyon and admired the Red Canyon; the road goes through two big arches. We arrived at the Park and headed right to the campground where we were pleased to get a spot under the pine trees.
Right across the road at Sunset point we walked up the rim trail aways, taking photos of the late afternoon sun on the hoodoos below. Later we enjoyed a Ranger talk at the lodge, on the threatened Utah Prairie dogs and other wildlife in the Park.

Cape Royal and the Colorado River

2010-09-12T20:20:00.000-07:00

The Angel's Window at Cape Royal

Still in Grand Canyon National Park, we drove out to Cape Royal; at the second viewpoint, we got our first look at the Colorado River far below. It was brown in colour, and was described by an early explorer as "too thick to drink, and too thin to plow." Once right out on the Cape, we started down the trail and were surprised to see another view of the river, this time seen through what's called the Angel's Window, an arch in a limestone point. Later we walked out to the point, right over the arch; look closely at the photo and you'll see people on the top.

Lunch on the edge

Back at the parking lot we got our lunch and looked for a place to have a picnic; we saw a great spot, but 4 people beat us to it - they told us they were only there to take photos - we we took some of them and then we carefully exchanged places and they took a few of us! What a view.

Sunday evening

2010-09-12T15:08:00.000-07:00

On the way back from Cape Royal we stopped so that I could walk into the woods to take a few photos of the beautiful wildflowers: small lupines, asters, and these yellow ones - large drifts of them - they were lovely with the sun shining on them.
Back at the lodge, we staked out a spot on the West patio, again with dozens of others, to watch the sunset. A waiter comes and takes your order while you wait, so you don't even have to move to get your refreshments. It's fun to talk to the others around you about their travels and compare notes.
Once it was fully dark we moved over to the East patio, as a ranger had set up his giant telescope - it was so big it had blinking red lights on its feet so no one bumped into it. We looked at the craters of the moon, at Venus, others stars and a nebula. He let us know that the International Space Station would be visible at precisely 8:18, for less than a minute, so a few minutes before, we went back over to the West patio and waited - sure enough there it was - so bright, and moving quickly - then it changed colour from white to orange and disappeared into the Earth's shadow.

South to the North Rim

2010-09-11T16:17:00.000-07:00

We got up early and visited the Human History Museum in Zion National Park - it has excellent displays on the Native groups in the canyon, how they lived, and the artifacts found, the early explorers and the settlers who farmed the lower canyon before it became a park. Then we headed east on the amazing Zion - Mt. Carmel road - up the many switchbacks to the mile long tunnel built in the late '20's, through one more tunnel and out into a slightly different landscape - one with pine trees and less red sandstone.
At the junction we headed south, stopping at the Western town of Kanab, where we had lunch at the Trail's End restaurant, and were startled to see that the waitresses wore, along with their jeans and western shirts, leather holsters with six-shooters!
Heading south again, the land became more forested, and we noticed aspen and pine trees. Soon we were at the entrance to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park where the sign told us that the Park campground was full, so we turned around and drove 4 miles back to a Forest Service campground, where we found a nice spot in the pine trees.
Back in the park, we drove to the old Grand Canyon lodge; from the back (main) entrance you don't realize that it's on the very edge of the canyon; it's when you enter, and walk down the stairs to the enormous sun room, with its huge windows and panoramic views of the canyon, that you see you're on the rim all right! It took our breath away. We hiked out to Bright Angel Point and got back to the Lodge in time for a ranger talk on Condors and other birds.

Grand Canyon sunset - North Rim

Later we waited on the Lodge patio, with dozens of others, for the sun to go down; it seemed that every minute the sun and shadows in the canyon changed; B took many photos of the ever changing sky.

Exploring the Zion canyon floor

2010-09-10T19:44:00.000-07:00

Our tent in the canyon near the river

We got into the south entrance of Zion National Park early, and got a coveted spot in the South Campground, right in the canyon. Deer wandered and grazed, not bothered at all by all the people nearby. After checking out the visitors centre, we were ready to catch the shuttle up canyon to the Lodge. Cars are no longer allowed past a certain point - the shuttle buses come along often, stop at most trailheads, are free, and you can hop on and off.

A hanging garden

Cardinal flowers

We got off at the Lodge and hiked up to the middle Emerald pool, along a sandy trail, spotting lizards, birds, rock squirrels and wildflowers, like the paintbrush and purple asters. At the middle pool, we crossed and took the trail down to the lower pool, walking under the small waterfall coming from the pool above, admiring the plants and ferns growing from the moist cliff; they call this a hanging garden. After lunch we took the shuttle right to the end of the road, and hiked the trail along the river; the canyon is narrow at this end; we passed a desert swamp, a mule deer resting in the shade only about 40 feet from the trail (a buck with impressive antlers), and butterflies visiting the red flowers growing up on the cliff.

From Provo to Hurricane

2010-09-09T19:51:00.000-07:00

Leaving Provo (just south of Salt Lake City) this morning I read in the guidebook that the city got it's name from Etienne Provost, a French Canadian who explored the area. We began to see more and more of these what look to me to be a type of black-eyed Susans beside the road; sometimes only a few, and sometimes whole fields of brilliant yellow. We thought hmmm... maybe that's the state flower, but no, the state flower is the Sego Lily. I took this picture of the yellow roadside flowers when we stopped for gas.
We also saw a bright orange sign we've never seen before: "Drowsy drivers use next exit." Luckily we can take turns driving and napping (not at the same time!)

Even the road was red!

By late afternoon we were at the north entrance to Zion National Park, and drove the 5 miles to the Kolob Canyons Viewpoint. It was a good thing there was no one behind us as we slowed to take photos of the red sandstone mountains; there was an astonishing view around every corner! At the end of the road we hiked the mile long trail to the viewpoint.
We're now in the town of Hurricane, Utah. Other town names we liked were Lime in Oregon, and Bliss in Idaho.

Another good driving day

2010-09-08T19:29:00.001-07:00

Great Salt Lake in the distance

Ontario, Oregon is so close to their neighbouring state that the motel had copies of the Idaho newspaper. Southern Idaho is dry except where there is irrigation for hay and corn fields. In the Southeast corner there were signs saying "dust storms, do not stop." So we didn't! We crossed into Utah and soon had our first glimpse of the Great Salt Lake. It's warm and sunny here - about 80 degrees F.

On to Oregon

2010-09-07T19:12:00.000-07:00

We left Seattle and headed southeast across Washington - first in rain over the Snoqualamie pass; the farther east we went the drier it got. We saw two deer, hay fields and vineyards. The driving was easy and soon we crossed the Columbia river into Oregon. We looked for traces of the old Oregon trail, saw the Snake river, and stopped in the town of Ontario, where we set our watches an hour ahead as it's the Mountain time zone.

Looking for the wagon ruts of the pioneers on the Oregon trail

Road trip

2010-09-06T21:11:00.000-07:00

We started our trip by visiting friends in Kirkland, just east of Seattle. While the guys rode mountain bikes on the Iron Horse trail (43 miles in total), V and I had a great time exploring the Bellevue Botanical Garden. It's a public garden with various areas such as the waterwise garden, the alpine one, Japanese section and the perennial border. This is where we were captivated by a flowering shrub without a name tag, so we took a photo of it and showed it to the staff at a local nursery. At one point three employees were studying the photo and searching reference books, but no one could come up with the name, so it remains a mystery!

Riding and writing

2010-06-06T20:59:00.000-07:00

The Vee Bar Ranch, near Laramie, is on a high plain in the Southeast corner of the state of Wyoming. I was there for a 5 day retreat: riding, writing, seeing wildlife, in great company. We were lucky to have mostly sunny days, though it was windy and quite cool (long underwear cool) at times. It was an amazing experience - watching the herd of horses run past, going to pasture in the late afternoon; seeing a round pen young horse training session; sitting by the fire in the lodge writing; hearing about endurance riding; best of all riding out and never going on the same trail twice - we saw pronghorn antelope, a fox, a mother elk with her minutes old calf, moose, rabbits, hawks and eagles. It was magical.

Heading home

2009-11-25T16:21:00.000-08:00

We're sad to be leaving Argentina, as we've had such a fantastic time here.
Late this afternoon we start the long trek home: we fly from Buenos Aires to Santiago, Chile, get off the plane for one hour, then fly the longest leg, from there to Toronto. A few hours later, if all goes well, we'll be on a plane home, arriving tomorrow.
Update: Had a good trip home; it's really Fall here now, and cold! Yesterday it was shorts, sandals and t-shirts in Spring weather, and today we're bundled up - it's Autumn.
Thanks for following along loyal readers; until next time!
m and b
Photo by caribb (flickr creative commons)

San Isidro

2009-11-24T20:56:00.000-08:00

Yesterday we walked to San Isidro, a little town up the road; it has cobblestone streets, a neo-gothic cathedral built in 1898, a flower clock, and an outdoor artisan market.
Today we walked down the hill to Peru beach, on the river (the extremely wide Rio de la Plata - so wide you can't see across to Uruguay on the other side) and watched people windsurfing and paragliding. We also packed, as we leave tomorrow.
Photo by Tulio Borges (Flickr Creative Commons)

Train to Tigre

2009-11-22T21:47:00.000-08:00

We took the local train north to the town of Tigre, on the river delta, a popular spot to spend a Sunday. We browsed the craft market stalls, walked past the rides (ferris wheel, roller coaster and pirate ship), past the many rowing clubs, and found the place to catch the boats. People who have cottages on the delta islands take these wooden boats to get back and forth.
We enjoyed the ride up the river, past resorts and small and large cottages, most on stilts. We got off at Tres Bocas, and followed a path to a patio restaurant on a side channel of the river. From there we watched the passing parade of walkers and their dogs on the path, and in the river: rowing skulls, jet boats, kayaks, and other various boats going by.
Photo by lep (Flickr Creative Commons)

Tango show

2009-11-21T19:57:00.000-08:00

We went out for a lovely dinner and then to watch tango. It was incredible and fun: both younger and older people dancing - most women in dresses, but some in pants too - all wearing high heels - how do they walk in them, let alone dance?
Later there was live music and tango demonstrations by an amazing couple, who were really excellent.
Photo by Armando (Flickr Creative Commons)

Back to BA

2009-11-20T08:00:00.000-08:00

Today we fly from Salta back to Buenas Aires. The photo is of the Convent door just a block down the street from where we´re staying: Hotel de Antigua Convento. A lot of things on the street are named after the convent, like the Convent pharmacy and so on.
Built as the first hospital in Salta, it´s now the home of Carmelite nuns. The massive wooden door was hand carved.
Photo by Sonik (Flickr Creative Commons)

Staying cool

2009-11-19T17:07:00.000-08:00

Whitewater rafting is sure a good way to stay cool on a hot day. There were 8 of us in the boat: me and 7 men - B, Frank our guide, and the others from Holland, Australia, England and Barcelona. Oh and one black lab came along too.
Once in our helmets and lifejackets, and after instructions, we set off, Gustavo in a small kayak that was our safety boat. The rapids were level III and after a few sets we were really working as a team, and listening to Frank bark out orders to paddle forward, backward, and harder.
In between rapids we admired the birds: white egrets, black cormorants, and small green parrots, and we noticed the goats and horses. Not once did we see people or dwellings during the two hours on the river. We also looked at the rock formations and colours, and the ceibo trees with their red flowers.
Gustavo, in the kayak, was always close by, but sometimes was playing in the back eddies, or going downstream backwards. We were in a particularly tricky stretch, with Gustavo just ahead of us, when he went over a big rock and flipped upside down. We were right behind, and could see that he hadn´t righted himself. For a minute it looked like we might go right over his upside down kayak, but Frank steered us to the side and was just reaching for the kayak when Gustavo appeared.
Then we had a situation, with Gustavo in the water, us paddling for shore as instructed, the kayak downstream from us, and the kayak paddle upstream.
We managed to catch up to the kayak, and Brad caught the paddle as it came by. Gustavo swam across the river, ending up downstream from us, and we went to pick him up, after Frank emptied the kayak of water and tied it onto the back of the raft. It was a bit of excitment we hadn´t expected, having to rescue our safety boat! Gustavo was a bit battered and lost a shoe, but was ok we think.
Back in Salta it had rained, so it´s a more pleasant temperature now.
Photo by maartenzam (Flickr Creative Commons)

Back in Salta

2009-11-18T21:55:00.000-08:00

This is an Algarrobo tree; the leaves are eaten by animals like sheep and horses, the wood is used for making furniture, and the pods are edible: we saw a big pile of them drying in the sun, on a high platform, when we were riding yesterday.
Today we drove back up the Quebrada de las Conches canyon, stopping to have a picnic beside the river. We´re back in the city of Salta now.
Photo by joseflickrsf (Flickr Creative Commons)

Desert ride

2009-11-17T21:32:00.000-08:00

Left the hotel at 0700 and half an hour later we were in a field helping to catch our horses. Brad rode a half Criolo half Peruvian Paso, and I was on a Peruvian Paso - both had very smooth gaits. We were on roads at first, but soon we were winding our way up a sandy dry creekbed between narrow canyons.
We stopped to see a wild behive in a hole in the canyon wall and could see the honey combs. Later we stopped for a break in the shade; parrots were screaming at us overhead as we were right beside their homes - holes in the cliff above. They´re called river bank parrots here.
Once we turned back we had a vista of the valley below, the green vineyards and the mountains in the distance. We were glad to have ridden early as it was getting hot.
So hot that we spent the afternoon by the hotel pool (it was at least 38 degrees), reading in the shade and swimming; also watching the doves come down to drink from the pool, and a bird that looked a bit like a kingfisher fly over the pool and scoop up bugs floating on the water.
We will hold the memory of the hot sun, cool pool, beautiful flowers and garden in our memories when we return to the cold and wet weather at home. It will be hard to leave tomorrow, to drive back to the city of Salta.
Photo by pilarchevallier (Flickr Creative Commons)

Vineyards in Cafayate

2009-11-16T19:56:00.000-08:00

This area is famous for Torrontes wine though other varieties are grown as well. The high altitude, sandy mineral rich soil, and differences in temperature (sometimes there can be a 20 degree difference between the high in the day, and the low at night) combine to produce the high quality grapes.
We went on a wine tour today, a tasting, then lunch on the patio overlooking the vineyards, the town and the mountains in the distance.
Photo by amarello (Flickr Creative Commons)

South from Tilcara to Cafayate

2009-11-14T21:41:00.000-08:00

It was a hot dry day (38C) for our drive south. After Salta we were in new territory that we hadn´t seen before. At first we went through tiny towns and had to watch out for chickens close to the road. Then we were out in the country, in a wide valley with mountains on either side. We saw tobacco growing, and fields with horses and cows. Gradually there was less and less vegetation...
Then we were in a narrow canyon, with signs warning the road was sinuoso, and it was... twisting and winding; around corners there could be rocks on the road, or cows, or goats! The sides of the canyon became more and more colourful - red, brown, orange, ochre, and terracotta. Then we started to see shapes - some of them were named, with signage, and we stopped to take pictures at the amphitheatre, the frog, and the monk. Others we saw as we drove by: the castle and the obelisk. The late afternoon sun on the rocks was beautiful; the canyon bottom with the river flowing through became wider and wider... soon we saw vineyards and knew we were close to the town of Cafayate.
After settling into our hotel, a lovely low building with white walls, tile roofs, lots of stone and wood, meandering courtyards full of plants, and a pool, we set out for the plaza a block away. Around 8 p.m. we were sitting on the patio of a restaurant thinking how amazing it was to be eating outside in the middle of November... when we felt a drop of rain, then a few more, and then it really started to rain and it was a comical scene of diners picking up their plates and running into the restaurant, and waiters racing back and forth to move everything indoors.
We wandered in and out of a few stores, heading towards the internet cafe, which was in the direction of our hotel. We were in a candy store when the heavens really opened up and there was torrential rain, thunder and lightening, and then the power went out! It was pitch black - not one street lamp... we waited, but the storm wasn´t letting up, so we decided to make a dash for it - we had to wait for a car to come down the street, walk quickly until the light disappeared, then shelter in a doorway until another car came along! Crossing the street was like stepping into a river, but eventually we reached the hotel - pretty wet, and glad that we each had a little flashlight in our room!
Photo by Juan Ignacio (Flickr Creative Commons)

Tilcara to Salinas Grandes and back

2009-11-13T21:05:00.000-08:00

We set out in our little VW headed west on a day trip, and were soon climbing into the mountains on seemingly endless switchbacks. At the summit, which was over 4000 meters above sea level, we stopped to take pictures of the signs, the road we´d just been on, and the tiny wizened woman chewing coca leaves and carving pictures onto rocks (and selling them). Where she had come from was a mystery, as we seemed to be far from an dwellings.
The road went down and then back up, but finally we were on the puna, or plateau, and could see the Andes in the distance, and the Salinas Grandes, or salt flats, which was our destination. Before we got there though, we had to stop to take photos of the vicuñas, the wild cousins of the llamas. Out on the salt flats (the road goes right across) we pulled over at the salt building - it´s made out of salt blocks. They actually mine the salt, put it in bags and truck it away to be sold. It was really hot as we walked out on the crinkled cracked flats, and blindingly bright, even with our hats and sunglasses on.
The ride back was faster, as it was mainly downhill; it was a good two lane highway, but we had to share it with slow heavy freight trucks on their way to or coming back from Chile.
Tonight we´re exploring Tilcara, and staying at a Posada up on the hill above town, with a view of the valley and colourful hills.
Photo by juan_m (Flickr Creative Commons)

Hill of seven colours

2009-11-12T21:06:00.000-08:00

Today we left Salta and headed north up a twisty narrow road beside a river; everything was very lush and green. Luckily it was a quiet road; we had to dodge cattle, the occasional horse, and even geese. Tobacco was growing in the fields - we soon left them behind and headed up a narrow gorge with a tropical feel - there were vines hanging from the huge trees.
At last the tiny road met the highway and we started making better time. Before long we were on the road up the Quebrada (canyon) de Humahuaca, where there were mountains on either side of a wide riverbed - green at first, then browner, until we literally turned a corner and saw a rockier landscape dotted with cardon cactus. Infrequent intense storms eroded the mountains, exposing the sedimentary layers, to create the fantastic and colourful formations we saw.
We turned up a narrow road to visit the tiny village of Purmamarca, which lies at the foot of the hill of seven colours. We had fun walking the dusty streets looking at crafts, kids playing with lambs, and of course the hills.
At 3 p.m. we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn, and had to stop to take a picture, and watch people in the distance herding sheep and tilling a field of onions by hand.
We´re staying in the small town of Humahuaca, where roads are made of cobblestones. The church was built in 1641.
Photo by Emi (Flickr Creative Commons)

MAAM: Museo de Arqueologia de Alta Montaña

2009-11-11T21:32:00.000-08:00

Today we explored the MAAM here in Salta. In 1999 a National Geographic mission went up to the top of a mountain 200 miles west of here, to recover three frozen mummified children, and the artifacts left with them. They were placed on the extinct volcano (over 6000 feet above sea level) over 500 years ago, as Incan offerings to the gods. In a cool, dimly lit room, designed to preserve them, we saw some of the items left with the children: sandals, textiles, pottery vessels, food, and small figures made of gold, silver and seashells. Only one child is on exhibit at one time, in a special -20 degree case within a case, and today it was the six year old girl. It was a pretty incredible experience.
Photo of the Cabildo (town hall) in Salta by vtveen (Flickr Creative Commons)

Dia de la Tradicion en Salta

2009-11-10T21:00:00.000-08:00

We were in a side-street looking for a particular restaurant for dinner, when two gauchos dressed in finery rode down a one way cross-street. We quickly walked after them, and when they stopped to check their cellphones, we asked where they were headed. This is how we found out about the Tradition Day happenings at the Plaza 9 de Julio, the main square.
The road on one side of the square had been blocked to traffic, and about 15 gauchos with their horses, and one mule, were there to be admired. A band played, and women, men and children in traditional dress milled about.
After the gauchos left, horses prancing, there was music and folklorico, or traditional dancing. There were various dances, some with scarves, and all ages participated. The men and boys wore hats, scarves, shirts and/or jackets, often a blanket folded over one shoulder, bombachas (baggy pants), wide belts, and boots. They really liked to stomp those boots on the cobblestones. The women and girls had colourful dresses with full skirts. They were enjoying themselves and it was fun to watch.
Photo of Iglesia San Francisco in Salta by juan_m (Flickr Creative Commons)

To Salta on Andes Air

2009-11-09T07:30:00.000-08:00

Today we head to Salta, in the northwestern region of Argentina. We leave behind the hot steamy jungle (today´s high is predicted to be 31 degress with 93% humidity), and move to higher ground, in the drier foothills of the Andes.
Update: On the way to the airport we drove through clouds of yellow butterflies, their wings glinting in the sun.
At first we were flying over wetlands; on the approach to Salta we could see brown hills, then a patchwork of tidy fields in the valley below. On the drive into town we noticed how brown the grass was; it´s extremely dry here - we were told that the smoke behind one hill was from a wildfire.
Photo by Angela (Flickr Creative Commons)

Güiraoga Centre

2009-11-08T20:59:00.000-08:00

We caught the local bus, called El Practico, out to the Guiraoga Centre. The words Guira oga mean bird house in the Guarani (local native) language. The centre rescues injured, abandoned and confiscated birds and animals, treats and rehabilitates them, and if possible, releases them back into the wild. The ones that can´t be released, or were former pets, live there, and are part of the education program.
After paying our admission, we waited with a few others for the tour to start; hearing an engine, we all turned expectantly and saw an old green tractor round the corner, pulling a flat bed wagon with bench seats on top. Up we climbed, and were towed along a winding dirt track deep into the jungle, to the start of the trail.
Our guide was very good, and gave every explanation in both Spanish and English. We saw tons of birds, including parrots, macaws and toucans, as well as various kinds of eagles, plus falcons and hawks. They also had capybaras, small deer, coatimundi, turtles and monkeys. All of them had interesting stories of how they came to be there. B´s favourite was the orange billed toucan, who obligingly sat on a branch about two feet from the side of the enclosure; my favourite was the young brown monkey, who entertained us by scampering up trees and hanging by his tail.

Photo by leaneske (Flickr Creative Commons)

Tres Fronteras

2009-11-07T18:19:00.000-08:00

Today we walked to the Hummingbird garden in the rain, but it was closed. So we walked about a km west of town, Puerto Iguazu, to a lookout point. From there you can see the lower Iguazu river join the Parana river. Across the Iguazu river is Brazil; on their point of land is a green and yellow marker. Looking west across the Parana river we saw the marker with the colours of Paraguay, red, white and dark blue. Behind us was of course the light blue and white Argentine one. We realized that what we´d been looking at on the horizon, from our hotel room was Paraguay.

Photo by Moniketa (Flickr Creative Commons)

Iguazu National Park

2009-11-06T13:44:00.000-08:00

We were at the park just after it opened at 0800, ready for a day of adventure... in BA we´d arranged a Green Passport, which gave us an English speaking guide, Carla, who knew where to go when, made reservations for the boats, and gave us commentary. Right away we saw a coatimundi on the path, and a toucan in a tree. Soon we were walking on steel walkways over some of the smaller waterfalls, with views of the larger ones ahead. The coatis are very cute, they walk along the handrails, and have lost their fear of people, so they look for handouts; we saw school kids giving them cookies, right near a sign saying feeding wildlife was prohibited!
Next we took a little train through jungle, and then were on walkways over the upper Iguazu river going out to the Devil´s Throat - a huge thundering waterfall, where there was so much spray it felt like it was raining - luckily we had donned our thin plastic raincoats so didn´t get too wet.
Then we got in a rubber raft powered by an oarsman, a smallish fellow, and headed downriver towards the falls... hmm we wondered, is he really strong enough to get us over to that bank? Luckily Juan was indeed strong and knew what he was doing, plus he knew where to find the Anis, black birds with long tails that come here for the Spring and Summer, and then will migrate north to Mexico when winter approaches here. We drifted down a side channel and saw lots of other birds and various sized caimans.
After a lunch break Carla got us to the right place to catch the truck that would take us to the boat on the lower river, promising to meet us at the landing place where we´d disembark. The boat was a dual engine high speed outboard, seating about 40 people. We put on our raincoats, then life jackets, and set off up the river through rapids and standing waves, towards the falls. First we got close enough to take photos, then the pilot told us to put the cameras in the drybags as we were going in... we went right up to the falls, praying the captain knew how to avoid tipping the boat and where all the rocks were. B says it was like getting under the most powerful cool water shower you can imagine. It was so loud - the Devil´s Throat - we had stood at the top in the morning and now were practically under it.
True to her word, Carla was waiting for us, and led us along the lower trail; we stopped to look at the lush green plants, the flowers and a hummingbird. It was an incredible day and we really saw the falls from every angle.

Photo by vtveen (Flickr Creative Commons)

Travel day

2009-11-05T05:19:00.000-08:00

Today we fly from Trelew, in Patagonia, to Buenos Aires, change planes, and fly up to Iguazu, in the north.
Update: it´s hot and humid here - 33 degrees C. when we arrived - we´re in the sub-tropical jungle now - the opposite of dry and cool Patagonia. There was a butterfly inside the terminal at the airport when we arrived.
Outside, one of the first things we noticed was the moist warm air, and on the trip into town, the red earth - red because of the iron oxide content. The kind that turns to slippery mud when it rains. In town, the roads that aren´t paved have rocks, so a bumpy ride, sort of like cobblestones. Tomorrow we have a full day at the Iguazu Falls.

Photo by Zvonimir (Flickr Creative Commons)

Too windy for a boat ride...

2009-11-04T16:54:00.000-08:00

Today we were to go out in a boat to see dolphins - they have an especially athletic kind here - but it was way too windy, so luckily we had our own guide, we weren´t in a bus, just ourselves, and our guide was a local, so he toured us around to see whatever we were interested in. This was an hour south of Puerto Madryn, in Trelew and surrounding area.
First stop was the Museum of Paleontology in Trelew, a modern building opened in 1999; the exhibits started out with scenes of the indigeous people, the Teheulches, and went backwards in time, so we saw puma, horse and dinosaur skeletons, then back to trilobites...
South of town we went up a sandy road to see fossilized oyster shells, - some were enormous - we climbed up a bit to see if we could find any shark teeth, but the wind was getting stronger so we left.
Trelew is on the Chubut river, the only river in the province, and the Welsh developed extensive irrigation systems... now people grow onions, lettuce, pears, plums, apples and cherries. All, except the cherries, are sold locally, - the cherries are exported to Spain.

Photo by itsjustanali (Flickr Creative Commons)

Day in town

2009-11-03T11:24:00.000-08:00

Today we spent time at a museum in an old mansion in town; the building itself was interesting - built by a Spaniard and his Welsh wife - 3 floors with a tower - the view from there was of the ocean and the town. A spiral staircase made of local stone took you from floor to floor. It was called the Provincial Museum of Man and the Sea, and was quite fascinating. Highlights included a preserved giant squid that had to be 14 feet long, and a room dedicated to the resident Orcas in the area, and their intentional beaching behaviour - they do this to snatch unsuspecting seal pups right off the beach, then wiggle back into the water.
Random facts: restaurants don´t open for dinner here until 8:00 p.m.; regular stores usually open around 9:30 a.m., close at 1:00, then reopen from 5:00 until 9:00 p.m., or some variation of those hours. We went to a Parilla for dinner - this is a restaurant with a brick fireplace and grill over a wood fire, and your meat comes on a brazier with hot coals inside.

Photo by bucaorg (Flickr Creative Commons)

In search of Southern right whales

2009-11-02T17:11:00.000-08:00

Today we were on a day long tour to Peninsula Valdes, a protected area and Unesco world heritage site. We´ve never seen so many whales, surfacing to breathe, with calves, tails coming out of the water, and some breaching too. It was incredible. Some were right beside the boat.
After lunch we went up the coast to see elephant seals, and Magellanic penguins on their eggs - some only about 4 feet from the fence; along the way we also saw sheep, wild ostrich, and guanoco. See the new websites added at the bottom of the page for more detail.
Photo by otomir (Flickr Creative Commons)

South to chilly Patagonia

2009-11-01T16:35:00.000-08:00

We left rainy Buenos Aires behind and flew two hours south to Trelew, in the northeast corner of Patagonia. We´ve come primarily in search of whales, as they soon leave the breeding grounds to head back to Antarctica. We´re an hour north of Trelew in a small town called Puerto Madryn; the primary industry here is aluminum - they make it with boxite from Brazil - and produce it as a powder as well as in blocks and ship it away. Fishing and tourism are the other two main sources of employment.
We hear the two types of weather here are windy and windier... it certainly is rather chilly and we´re wearing many layers, but enjoying the sunshine. It´s very dry here and flat - a steppe, which was settled by Welsh immigrants; we´ve seen Welsh cake in tins for sale in gift shops.
Today we walked all along the seawall, which was full of people strolling, having picnics, rollerblading, cycling, skateboarding, and in the water (with wet suits), kitesurfing. Our destination was the Ecocentro, which had full whale skeleton, and many fine exhibits of the marine life here.

Guanoco photo by bucaorg (Flickr Creative Commons)

Buenos Aires with obelisk

2009-10-31T19:59:00.000-07:00

Our last day in BA for awhile as tomorrow we head south. We went downtown and spent quite a bit of time in the amazing bookstore El Ateneo Grand Splendid in the Recoleta neighbourhood. Amazing because it's housed in an old theatre, built around 1919, with a cafe on the former stage. It has a beautifully painted dome ceiling, and balconies on the sides; it seemed like there were as many people there to look at books as there were to take photos, with flashes going off all over. Speaking of flashes, there is thunder and lightning right above at the moment; the thunder is actually shaking the house, and the rain is pouring down. It's still quite warm out though. Halloween isn't really celebrated here, though a few kids in this neighbourhood trick or treat.
After the bookstore we had lunch at Cafe Tortoni, another institution - both a cafe and tango place (at night). It's over 100 years old, and you line up to get in it's so popular. Took the train back; so far on the train rides we've had there have been fellows selling socks, tape measures, flashlights, cookies, chewy mints and hair clips. They can walk from car to car from one end of the train to the other.

Photo by Yeraze (Flickr Creative Commons)

Floralis Generica

2009-10-30T23:03:00.000-07:00

We went downtown and took photos of this enormous sculpture; it's photosensitive and opens with the light, then at dusk starts to close. Walked to MALBA, or Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires; it's a very modern building that only opened in 2001; we saw a special exhibit of Andy Warhol's work, plus the permanent collection of Latin American art. They have an interesting gift shop and lovely cafe - had a cortado - espresso with a bit of milk served in a cute little cup; it came with a bite size brownie.

Photo by dimitrid f (Flickr Creative Commons)

Plaza de Mayo

2009-10-29T13:06:00.000-07:00

Today we went into Buenos Aires by train (we're staying 17 km out in F & T's beautiful neighbourhood) and saw the large old Retiro train station, then walked to the memorial for the fallen soldiers of the Malvinas (Falklands) war. Went on a great walking tour, and after lunch went to the plaza de mayo and saw the Mothers of the Disappeared on their silent march in front of the Presidential offices (saw the balcony where the Perons would appear and Evita addressed the crowds). The mothers and grandmothers have been marching for justice every Thursday afternoon at 3:30 for over 30 years.
Walked through a craft market, visited the cathedral, then the pedestrian only street Florida, where there are lots of interesting shops.
Caught the train back; it was hot and humid today, but tonight it's windy, and we hear thunder in the distance...
Photo by Como (Flickr Creative Commons)

Plaza San Martin

2009-10-28T21:42:00.000-07:00

Went downtown today and had a driving tour of the city: georgeous architecture, SO many parks with mature trees, dog walkers, wides streets with 9 or more lanes one way... very vibrant. Had a tour in English through the Museum of Decorative Arts - a neoclassical French mansion - incredible. Picked up Iris at the airport, so now our 5 person mini-reunion of the field school begins!

Photo by PabloBD (Flickr Creative Commons)

Flying to Buenos Aires

2009-10-27T16:00:00.000-07:00

Flying from Toronto to Santiago Chile, then over the Andes to Buenos Aires.
Update: we were 2 hours late leaving Toronto, as our plane had problems; a new plane was found and we left at 1:00 a.m. Had dinner on board at 2 a.m., then slept - didn't see much as we were above the clouds. Landing in Santiago Chile was interesting - seeing the green fields in the valley with mountains on either side. Had to get off the plane with all of our carry on, go through security, then get back on.
It's lovely and warm here with lots of flowers: roses, jacaranda trees just coming into bloom...
Photo by Irargerich (Flickr Creative Commons)

Flying from Vancouver to Toronto

2009-10-26T06:30:00.000-07:00

Today we fly to Toronto, make our connection and catch a late flight south.

Photo by Cory (Flickr Creative Commons)

Flying home this afternoon

2009-02-12T13:00:00.000-08:00

We shared a taxi to the airport, arriving just an hour and a half before our flight; we were told there was no need to get there any earlier, and sure enough, there was plenty of time. Ours was the only flight that day, there is only one waiting area, and only one gate! You walk across the tarmac to the plane.
Thanks for following along; until next time!

Photo at Loreto International Airport taken by qbarandrew (Flickr Creative Commons)

Sunset with pelican

2009-02-11T21:43:00.000-08:00

Today we cycled 7 km north to a restaurant right on the beach, across from Coronado Island. It took us 2 hours to get there on gravel/sand roads; we got lost a few times, were chased by aggressive gringo dogs (one nipped my foot but luckily I had runners on), and were riding into the wind. After a long lunch we headed back, and it felt like it was all downhill, as the wind was now pushing us; it only took one hour!
We've started packing as tomorrow we fly home.

Photo by aquanerds (Flickr Creative Commons)

Hibiscus

2009-02-10T19:11:00.000-08:00

Today was a quiet day of walking, looking in shops (one has a sign that says Conchita's Curios on one side, and Conchita's Curious on the other), going to the Latte Cafe, and relaxing at the Inn. It was built as a family home in 1916, and turned into an Inn just 3 years ago. It has generous common spaces to relax, a covered outdoor kitchen, a garden with a hammock, and a patio sheltered by the wind, that catches the late afternoon sun. There are flowering shrubs, cactus, vines, a lime tree that rains limes when it's windy, and a fig tree. The resident dog, Isabella, welcomes everyone, while the cat, Banshee, rarely makes an appearance; he's half Siamese and half wild Baja cat - he has beautiful blue eyes and incredibly long legs.

Photo by lisstoun (Flickr Creative Commons)

Grey whales

2009-02-09T21:02:00.000-08:00

This morning we left at 0730 to go over to the Pacific side - to Magdalena Bay. The grey whales migrate all the way down here from Alaska each winter to calve in the protected lagoons. We drove for two hours: first south, then west up switchbacks into the mountains, then on the flat straight roads across the desert, stopping to take photos of ospreys; every tenth power pole had a platform for the nests.
At the marina we donned our life jackets and went out in a panga. The first thing we saw was a small National Geographic ship, loading people into zodiacs. Soon we saw our first mother and baby whale; the mothers are grey, and the little ones are darker. We saw lots in the lagoon, some surfaced quite close to the boat. Twice we saw adults spyhopping! It was amazing. We saw dolphins, and along the shore saw herons, pelicans, egrets, cormorants and of course gulls.
After a lunch at a nearby restaurant, where we were all served the combo: fish, prawns and lobster, we headed back to Loreto.
Later, five of us from the Inn went up to the rooftop bar at the Posada de Los Flores, and sipped margaritas while watching the sunset and then the full moon appear.

Photo by trevor_clark77 (Flickr Creative Commons)

Sunday market peppers

2009-02-08T17:15:00.000-08:00

This morning we went to the Sunday market, which is in the arroyo at the end of our street. It was half flea market, and half food market; we bought some fruit.
Then we went south of town (with 3 Canadians in their jeep) to a beach called Ensenada Blanca, where we walked around to the far side of the bay, and up a trail to the end of the point. We were up fairly high, and could see the south ends of both Danzante and Carmen islands, with sailboats in the distance; a beautiful spot.

Photo by webbmb (Flickr Creative Commons)

A day on the water: part two

2009-02-07T17:23:00.000-08:00

We then went to the end of Isla Carmen and headed east; without the protection of the island, the sea was choppy, so it was a rough ride. Finally we got out to where some Blue whales were; we couldn't believe out eyes when the first one surfaced - they're enormous (the largest whales - they can be from 90 to 100 feet long), with a tiny dorsal fin, and they're a grey-blue colour.
It was the same watching, take pictures, getting some video, then when they dived down, we watched and waited to see where they would surface again. Usually we would hear them blow before we saw them.
After some time we'd all had enough, and so we headed back; on the way we found porpoises! They were fun to watch, and were really close to the boat. It was a great day.

Photo by kenbondy (Flickr Creative Commons)

A day on the water: part one

2009-02-07T17:22:00.000-08:00

We left at 8 a.m. from the marina in a panga (small open boat) with 3 others and our captain, Rodrigo. The sea was smooth and glassy as we headed south. Up ahead we could see small dolphins, so slowed right down to watch them. Some were right beside the boat, the rest were just ahead, and sometimes 2 or 3 would surface together.
Then we headed over towards Isla Carmen, and soon noticed whales blowing. They were two Fin whales, big and black, with a small dorsal fin. They're the second biggest whale, and can grow to be almost 80 feet long. We would watch them surfacing, then they would dive down and we would wait to see where they'd come up next.

Photo by loretobay (Flickr Creative Commons)

Along the malecon

2009-02-06T17:57:00.000-08:00

This afternoon we took the bikes and rode all along the malecon (seawall) to the end, then along sandy roads to the North edge of town. Walked along the beach, and watched people fishing from a bar, pelicans diving and egrets wading.
Now we're getting ready for a whale watching trip tomorrow.

Welcome sign photo by g-na (Flickr Creative Commons)

The significance of 1697

2009-02-05T20:02:00.000-08:00

Our favourite restaurant so far is in the corner of this square, which has the bandshell in the middle. The restaurant is called 1697, which is the year the Jesuits landed and built a mission (B likes the name of the local basketball team: Los Misionaros); the mission was the first permanent Spanish settlement in the Californias. The Jesuits named the town after Loreto in Italy, where they'd studied.
Loreto is a small town with one traffic light, and many cobblestone streets.
Today we walked to the marina and watched the pelicans diving for fish. We also enquired, at a few places, about whale watching out past the island - we've had reports of blue and fin whale sightings.

Town square photo by rianap (Flickr Creative Commons)

Cycling

2009-02-04T21:34:00.000-08:00

We borrowed bikes from the Inn; I was on a purple one speed with wide handlebars! We peddled south, and in a few blocks the road dipped down and crossed the arroyo, then at the edge of town it turned into a gravel and sand track that ran beside the beach. Farther along we saw the airport on our right. Signs explained the extent of the Marine park offshore and the do's and don'ts in both Spanish and English. Stopped for a break at a palapa, and went beachcombing; only found green and white beach-glass, despite the fact that we've seen lots of blue beer and tequila bottles here.

Photo by mksfly (Flickr Creative Commons)

Posada de Las Flores pool

2009-02-03T21:01:00.000-08:00

A day for laundry and grocery shopping; we also walked to the luxury hotel Posada de Las Flores, in the historic centre of town a block away. It has colonial architecture, antiques, and most amazing, a rooftop pool with a glass block bottom, so that you can see the bottom of the pool from the lobby. We climbed the spiral staircase to the roof to see the pool and the view: you can see the whole town, and the Gigante mountains to the west.

(Flickr Creative Commons photo)

Back from second kayaking trip

2009-02-02T13:02:00.000-08:00

Yesterday our group split up and B and two others paddled around the island, while we paddled to the next bay, then hiked up to a small ridge to see the view. It was a warm sunny day with calm seas.
Today the forecast was for wind, so we got up early, packed up, and paddled across before the winds got any worse. There were some big swells, but not as bad as last week, and I was in the front of the double, so that was great.

Photo by julioaka (Flickr Creative Commons)

Snorkling

2009-01-31T13:08:00.000-08:00

Today we go half an hour south of Loreto, and launch the kayaks for an hour's paddle over to Isla Danzante, where we'll set up camp and do some snorkling. We stay 2 nights and return on Monday, when I'll post updates.

Fish photo by sandshodges (Flickr Creative Commons)

Museum visit

2009-01-30T16:04:00.000-08:00

Finally a day in town! We went to visit the museum, which has exhibits in chronological order from the times of indigenous peoples (3 groups) to the Europeans.
I've added a link to photos of the trip to the San Javier mission and the canyon hike. They were taken by a fellow from Seattle - they start off with photos around Loreto, then whales (we weren't with them then), but when you see the big fig tree, that's the start of the trip to San Javier. When you see my yellow ballcap, that's the Tabor canyon hike. Nathan has a great telephoto lens on his camera!
We've signed on for another kayak trip, leaving tomorrow morning and returning Monday. It's to Danzante island south of Loreto, and with the improved weather forecast and shorter crossing it should be good! There will be 6 of us, including our 2 guides.
Tonight we go to the sea turtle conference to catch the videos.

Photo by ecbacelis (Flickr Creative Commons)

Hike up Tabor canyon

2009-01-29T17:00:00.000-08:00

Today we went on a day hike with 4 others, up Tabor Canyon, about a half hour drive south of Loreto. It started out as a trail, but soon we were climbing over big boulders in a dry creekbed.
At one point we had to wade through a 3 foot deep pool, then climb up under a huge rock, and clamber up a dark chimney to the top. We passed some really deep pools, fig trees, palms, cactus, flowering bushes, tiny frogs, then stopped beside a small waterfall to have lunch on a flat rock.
We could look down the canyon and see the ocean in the distance. It was nice and warm out of the wind.
Tonight we met 2 Australians who are cycling from Alaska to the southern tip of Argentina! See their website (link at the bottom of this page) for more detail. Other interesting things happening: an organization called World Vets has a team of 12 here for a free spay and neuter clinic. Also, our Inn is full of people attending the annual Sea Turtle conference!

Photo by loretobay (Flickr Creative Commons)

Our Lady of Loreto and San Javier churches

2009-01-28T15:59:00.000-08:00

This morning we met at this church in town; we were a group of 8 going inland to see the mission church in San Javier - there was us, 4 from the Seattle area, our guide Oscar, and his 3 year old daughter April, who actually was born in September.
The first part of the road was newly paved, but soon we were on gravel - a rough and twisty road that crossed shallow rivers several times, and climbed into the mountains. We stopped to see a huge old fig tree growing out of a rocky cliff, to see rock paintings beside a river, and at Oscar's friend's ranch to fix a flat tire. While that was going on we talked to the ranch owners - they raise cattle, have 6 horses, and goats (they make goat cheese).
We drove through San Javier to his in-law's farm, where we had lunch; while it was being prepared, we were shown around to see the large vegetable garden beside the river, then we saw the goats and pigs - they raise their goats for meat.
Next stop was the mission church, completed in 1758. We walked behind the church to see the 300 year old olive tree, and met a local who invited us to tour his farm, where he grows vegetables and as well has orange, lemon and olive trees. On the way back to the van we saw a huge tarantula - a very photogenic one!

Church photo by kenjiku (Flickr Creative Commons)

Kayaking in the wind and waves

2009-01-27T05:51:00.000-08:00

Woke up to strong winds and whitecaps on the water of our bay. Our guide, Ryan, listened to the marine forecast on his VHF radio and heard that in the afternoon there was going to be a small craft warning; plus the El Norte winds were expected to last until Friday. So not wanting to be stuck there, we had a quick breakfast (tequila omelet and tortillas) and hightailed it... first we had to pack up - carry all our gear further down the beach, then carry the kayaks down there too. It was the narrowest and lowest spot on the spit, and we wanted to launch on the leeward side, opposite from where we landed.
Got underway (it was a sprayskirt day, unlike yesterday) and once away from the island,
were really in the waves, which ranged from 3 to 4 foot swells. We were heading towards the peninsula, which meant the waves were coming at us from the side. It was exciting to say the least! Finally closer to shore the waves were smaller and we were able to turn and paddle parallel to the shore, which meant the waves were coming behind us. It was certainly a faster return trip with the wind pushing us along! We didn't stop for a break. Finally we were approaching Loreto, and about 500 yards from shore the wind picked up, the waves got bigger, and Ryan told us he would go in first, then help us - we would go in one by one. For some reason Trevor decided to go in by himself, right behind Ryan, and we watched in horror as Trevor's kayak turned and flipped over in the surf, but Ryan was right there to help him; he was fine. I went next, and had to work hard to stay straight and not get turned sideways. With both Ryan and Trevor to catch me I was fine - just glad to have made it!
We were soaked to the skin except where we wore our snug life jackets - those spray skirts don't really keep the water out - not when you have waves breaking over you!

Heading to Coronado Island

2009-01-26T05:42:00.000-08:00

We launched right from the beach in Loreto and paddled north close to shore; the water was calm and while we were paddling into the wind, it was really only a light breeze, so none of us had sprayskirts on. After a couple of hours we stopped at a beach for a break, then headed directly over to the island. Two people at the front saw a sea turtle but it had dived down by the time we caught up. Rounding a point we turned and went into a shallow sandy bay and pulled the kayaks onto a white sand beach. Pitched our tents among the dunes and our guide made ceviche, guacamole and taco chips for lunch. Spent the afternoon snorkling; the water was cool so we were happy to have the loaner shortie wetsuits; we were also glad the sun had come out.

Photo of Coronado Island by Terriem (Flickr Creative Commons)

Flying to Loreto, Mexico today

2009-01-25T13:00:00.000-08:00

Loreto is about two thirds of the way down the Baja Peninsula, on the Sea of Cortez side; we're looking forward to sunshine and warm days.
Had a clear sunny day for flying and made it here by 4:30 (they're on Mountain Standard Time so an hour ahead). Checked into the Inn, had dinner and met our kayak guide and the other 2 paddlers. We're hoping the weather cooperates for our 3 day trip.

Photo by Kyle Fring (Flickr Creative Commons)

Leaving for Loreto in January

2008-12-15T22:09:00.000-08:00

We leave for Loreto, Mexico, on January 25th and can't wait, especially as we now have snow and really cold temperatures...brrrrr!

Flying home

2008-07-12T03:00:00.000-07:00

Our flights were pretty well on time; it was British Midlands from Dublin to London - you have to buy your coffee, and there was no food as it's a short flight. Heathrow is such a huge airport; we got our exercise walking from Terminal 1 to terminal 3. Our Air Canada plane home was quite new, and each seat had its' own screen with on-demand movies; I watched three, Sally watched four, and the food was good too. We flew over Glasgow, Scotland, Iceland, Greenland and Baffin Island.
So, loyal readers, thanks for following along; until next time!
m.

Photo: CC by Tolka Rover

Heading East

2008-07-11T01:00:00.000-07:00

We left Clifton about 0930 and headed east back to Galway, stopping briefly in a place called Recess, where they have a statue of Conn, Man of the Sea, beside the road, the purpose of which seems to be to get you to visit the gift shop (it worked)! My turn to drive then, and we survived the roundabouts of Galway and got the car safely returned. Now we have a lunch break before catching the train back to Dublin, the bus to the airport, and the shuttle to our hotel nearby. We've heard news of trouble with the radar at the Dublin airport; yesterday many flights were cancelled, so cross your fingers that everything is back to normal tomorrow as we need to get to London on time to catch our connecting flight home.

Photo: CC by misoponia

Day long beach ride

2008-07-10T06:25:00.000-07:00

Today we joined a group doing a 6 day ride with Willie Leahy, renowned Irish Connemara pony horseman. We were surprised it was such a large group - 25 - divided into those who only wanted to walk and trot, and the rest! I had a small bay named Murphy, who seemed to have two speeds: walk and run. Sally was on Willow, a lovely grey mare. We spent the day on Mannin Bay Beach, and were in the dare-devil group, cantering and galloping on the sand. Just before we had lunch those who wanted to, (yes we did) took the saddles off the horses and rode them into deep water until they were swimming! It was cold, but a lot of fun!
The photo is from Willie's website, and it's exactly what it was like; he's quite a character. It was cloudy and cool in the morning, but luckily when it was time to go in the water the sun had come out.

On to Clifden

2008-07-09T06:21:00.000-07:00

Woke to misty rain and drove to Connemara National Park; great exhibits - also walked to the field to see the resident Connemara horses grazing. Then it was on to Clifden (still in Connemara district) where we stay for 2 nights. It's a busy town compared to Cleggan; we visited the museum (history of Connemara horses exhibit). Drove south and turned off when we saw the sign for the Marconi/Alcock and Brown monuments. Despite the fact that it looked like a road into a sheep field, which it was, we did see where Alcock and Brown crashed landed in a bog after the first transatlantic flight. Carried on to Roundstone; after touring the music shop and watching bohdrons (Irish drums) being made, walked around the town and now sit in an internet cafe across the road from the water, and the sun has come out!

Photo: CC by rkeohane

West from Cong to Cleggan

2008-07-08T06:17:00.000-07:00

Left Cong about 9 and drove north to Westport, walked around, then drove out to the National Famine monunent, and took pictures of the big bronze statue called the Coffin Ship, which sits on a grassy slope overlooking Clew Bay. Across the road was the visitors centre, with a stand renting walking sticks for people about to start the 3 hour hike up the mountain where St. Patrick fasted for 40 days. We resisted the urge to yell "get a horse," at the hikers; drove on the winding narrow road to Leenane (where the movie The Field was filmed), stopping to wait for sheep to cross the road at times. Leenane is a wide spot in the road at the head of Killary Harbour, a 9 mile long fjord, and has a wool centre and cafe, which required a stop; I decided two toques was enough, but Sally bought a "perfect for paddling" one.
Drove on, past Kylemore Abbey across a lake, and turned down a little used road to Cleggan (in Connemara district, in County Galway), a tiny village on a harbour. After checking into the B&B, we went to the Cleggan Beach Riding Centre (see the link at the bottom of this page) for our 3 hour ride to Omey Island. The island is only accessible when the tide is low, so our ride started at 5 p.m.
After a lot of walking, part way into the village and then on lanes and small roads, we came to the beach, where we cantered. There were cars driving out to the island; guess if you drive out and the tide comes in, you're there until it's out again. On the island we went along a sandy road, then back to the beach. We went by houses with stacks of peat; people still use it in their fireplaces. We were lucky to have sunshine for the ride, and saw a nice sunset later (10 p.m.)

Photo: CC by Dittmeyer

Inis Mor to Cong

2008-07-07T07:13:00.000-07:00

Got up very early and hiked downhill 20 minutes from our B&B to the pier, where our ferry left on the dot of 8. Then the bus back to Galway; did a quick tour of the free Galway City Museum, where they have a Galway Hooker (28' wooden sail boat) hanging in the atrium; they were used to fish the local shallow waters and deliver peat to the Aran Islands.
Picked up our rental car, a little black 2008 VW Golf, and managed to get out of the parking garage (1st challenge) then out of Galway with several roundabouts. then we were in the country, where the roads have no shoulders, and sometimes the car brushed the vegetation beside the road but thank heavens not the rock walls. Sally is a good driver, and I'm a bad passenger, alternating between gasping, clutching the seat and hitting my imaginary brake pedal. I was wishing for a blindfold, but had to navigate. In under an hour we were at our destination, Cong, in County Mayo. In 1952 The Quiet Man, with John Wayne and Maureen O'Hara, was filmed there. See the bottom of this page for a link to some photos of Cong.
Walked to Ashford Castle, which is enormous and on a huge estate; walked around and took photos then went into the opulent lobby for a peek at the inside.

Photo: CC jmenard48

To the Aran Islands

2008-07-06T07:08:00.000-07:00

Caught the bus from Galway to the town of Rossaveal; then the ferry to the largest of the Aran Islands, Inis Mor. Our B&B was an uphill walk of about 25 minutes, but the view from our upstairs room is of cows and a horse in little fields with stone walls, a few houses, and the ocean; it's beautiful!
We hopped on a tour van with a great guide/driver; there are 3 churches on the island, and 7 pubs, 3 primary schools, 1 highschool and 14 villages, with a total population of around 800. Everyone speaks Gaelic
We were at Dun Aonghasa for 2 hours (there's a 30 minute walk to the site from the visitors centre) - it's the Iron Age ring fort at the top of a 300' cliff; it's incredible. See the link at the bottom of this page for more info.
Checked out the shops nearby and each bought a toque (wool hat) - never thought I'd be wearing one in July but it's windy!
Back on the tour bus we went to the far end of the island and saw more thatched roof cottages (they grow rye for thatch), and potatoes growing. They have big wild rabbits, and horses, cows and goats, but no sheep (can't keep them in the stone fences) or pigs (tear up the ground). Every family gets some good land and some rocky; no farm has been sold in 30 years - just get passed down in the family. They've had electricity for 30 years; supply boats bring most everything; heat their houses with coal or oil - they used to burn peat brought over from the mainland, and all the cars are diesel. Rainwater is caught and stored for drinking, and every field has a stone slab on a slant to catch rainwater and send it to a trough for the animals.
Photo: CC by roncaglia

Heading West

2008-07-05T07:00:00.000-07:00

Terry picked us up at 0845 and drove all of us to Dublin, where Sally and I caught the 11:10 train to Galway; we were on a very smooth modern train and arrived at 2:00.
Walked around and took photos; ducked into a store as the heavens opened and it poured rain, but then there was a rainbow!
I've updated all the posts from last Sunday on so am now up to date. There are also some links at the bottom of this page.

Photo: CC by ithaca09

Last day in County Wicklow

2008-07-04T06:58:00.000-07:00

Riding centre: "From the village of Laragh the ride continues through the National Park and the Annamoe Valley, renowned for its beautiful scenery and historic monuments. This is the perfect ending to a memorable week.”
Woke to an amazing sight - is that sunshine? We were without our support team (had our guides; they spent the night in the village as it was too far to go back to Dublin), so carried our tack down the road to the field where the horses had spent the night, caught them without any grain (Sunny Boy likes granola bars!) and tacked them up. Set off into the forest and up a heather covered mountain until we could look back at the tower and across the landscape. Stopped for a break, then headed down a different way. Only a 3 hour ride today; had to ride through busy Laragh to where Anthony was parked with the lorry - took care of the horses and said goodbye to them before they were loaded on the truck. It was a great week of riding despite the rain - we had fun and saw a lot of the countryside! No injuries or mishaps.
Sally says "my beautiful Irish redhead Lacey was reliable and looked after me."
I discovered that Sonny Boy doesn't like anything white (except sheep) and shied at white rocks, white bags, white dogs, but was strong and surefooted.
After a restaurant lunch and goodbyes (our guides and horse wrangler were headed back to the riding centre) we had time for shopping and found an internet place (but no ATM in the village) - there was an old woolen mill shop and a celtic crafts shop we all had to visit!

Photo: CC by hakejam

To the tower

2008-07-03T06:56:00.000-07:00

Riding centre info: "After a good nights rest at Glenmalure Lodge, where you will have enjoyed its friendly atmosphere, open fires and traditional Irish music the night before, you and your horse will follow the old military road past the ruins of Drumgoff Barracks. Here many battles were fought in the mountains during the 1798 rebellion. The ride continues through the forests and rugged mountains leading down to the mysterious Glendalough Lakes. Here we overlook the Monastic Valley and the 7th Century Round Tower. This is the symbol of Ireland's Middle Ages reputation as the island of Saints and Scholars around the time when the Vikings attacked Glendalough in 833.”
Well no music or fire last night (as mentioned in the description above); woke up to steady rain. Set off and turned onto a forest road (lots of logging here), and up the side of the valley (longest glaciated valley in Ireland) and saw a huge waterfall across the way - near it a battle scene from Braveheart was filmed. We could see sheep being herded single file up a zigzag path - tiny moving dots. Down the other side of the mountain Anthony was waiting; we tied each horse to a tree, loosened girths, gave them water and grain - our lunch today was in a stone hut with an earthen floor. We were so wet - when I tilted my head water ran off my helmet and I could have wrung out my riding gloves!
We set off after lunch up another mountain and this time at the top, the wind was really blowing, the rain was coming at us sideways, and I was dreaming of wool gloves and wool socks! It was the only time I felt cold. We had to cross a nasty bog, so Tanya, the more experienced guide, who usually is at the back, led us on a circuitous route - the safest way - and we had to keep together so that we could go right behind the horse in front, and not deviate from the path; even so, there were some parts where the horses sunk up to their hocks. Once safely across, Tanya told us a terrible tale of horses falling and others sinking almost to their withers. If we hadn't crossed the bog, it would've added two hours to our ride, and we usually ride about 5 hours a day.
From there we took a forest road and wound our way down; encountered some hikers - once we were at a lower elevation we warmed up and the rain quit. Finally we saw glimpses of the lakes (Glendalough means valley of two lakes) and then from a lookout we saw the tower for the first time (St. Kevin's monastery - the tower was to watch for Viking raiders). What a view - we stopped many times for photo ops - much later in the evening we walked there (after dinner at about 9:00 - it doesn't get really dark here until 11:00) and had the place to ourselves - all the tour buses had gone - and took more photos.
No Anthony waiting for us (we were too far from the riding centre), so we turned the horses out in a field close to the B&B, and carried our tack to a shed at the back.

Photo: CC by gwarcita

Through glen and river

2008-07-02T06:54:00.000-07:00

Riding centre description: "Spectacular scenery unfolds all around you as you ride through the Glen of Imaal (the seat of power of Leinster Kings during the Iron Age - 500BC - 700 AD) Here you will be taken through small farms and open moors, crossing the River Slaney and on to Spinnans Hill where you will be able to see Brusselstown Ring - an Iron Age hill fort. This area is steeped in history, and one of the many examples that your experienced guides will share with you is that of Kilranelagh Cemetery known as the Gates of Heaven.“
We saw deer in the sheep-field as we made our way up a mountain. Took photos from the top, as the view was spectacular. We did a lot of cantering and galloping today, a bit of jumping, and crossed a river - the water was about 4 feet deep.
Tanya was kept busy opening and closing gates and her small purebred Icelandic horse Blacker would often trot away and she'd have to chase him. He's named that as his brother Aero is a dark brown colour, but he's blacker!
We've seen SO many sheep; they're raised for the meat as the wool isn't worth much; we saw one that had one side of his face white and the other black. Rode through a little village and found Anthony; didn't unsaddle the horses since we were so wet (raining again) and wanted to get on our way quickly - he had lunch ready in the lorry - lunch in the horsebox! He had the little table and campstools set up in there, and the usual sandwiches, hot tea and chocolate bars! Yeah! In the afternoon it stopped raining and we rode through some farms, at one point herding some cattle ahead of us. The sun came out and we had a great ride down more lanes, with honeysuckle and fuchia hedges.
Met Anthony and loaded the horses in the lorry; Terry drove us 45 minutes over mountains to the Glenmalure lodge; the horses stay in the field across the road overnight.

Photo: CC by Florian

Over mountains to Donard

2008-07-01T06:51:00.000-07:00

Riding centre blurb: "From Poulapuca (the lake of the fairies) over Knocknadroosa Mountain to a well deserved picnic lunch in the Hollywood Glen. The trail that follows over Knocknaboley leads to the Church Mountain and then descends via the heather covered Cuckoo Valley, where the silence of the hills is only broken by the sound of the Cuckoo and your horses hoof beats. A welcome drink will be waiting in Donard (Dun Ard, meaning the High Fort, is the site of one of the 3 churches founded by Palladius in Wicklow 431AD).”
Yes, well, we were in full rain-gear all day and had every kind of rain you could think of, from mist to downpour, with wind too, but it wasn't cold.
We rode on small lanes and through the village of Hollywood, past the Inn where we had dinner last night, built in 1792 and used as a stagecoach stop.
Around the corner and up another lane we passed a granite church which U2 used to record their music.
We rode up over a mountain and had a picnic lunch under trees - Anthony was waiting there and had set up a small table with our sandwiches, hot tea and chocolate bars, and we sat on little folding camp stools. We set off again into an uninhabited area where we could look back at the lake - for most of the afternoon there was only the landscape, sheep and us (oh and the wind and rain). We did quite a bit of trotting to get off the mountain earlier, and were glad to arrive at Bolton's farm, where the horses stay in a field for the night. We waited and waited for Terry to arrive to take us to our B&B - turned out he was in a ditch! He had almost made it to the farm, but had to reverse to let another car pass, and slid into the ditch, then had to wait for a local farmer to pull him out with his tractor.
It was the last day for our Kansas rodeo champ and her Grandma, so now we'll be a group of six, or eight with our two guides.

Photo: CC by llja

We meet our Irish horses

2008-06-30T06:48:00.000-07:00

Riding centre blurb: "After selecting your equine partner and having a brief assessment at the Calliaghstown Riding Centre you will be sent on your way for a memorable journey through the magnificent scenery of the Gardens of Ireland. A fun ride is ahead in the Sleavetoule Forest with optional natural jumps and then follow the quiet country lanes down to the Kilteel Inn for lunch. Here you will have your first opportunity to see a real Irish castle - Kilteel Castle was built in the early 13th century. The afternoon ride takes you across the heather and gorse covered Sorell Hill overlooking the Blessington Lakes and you will finish your ride in the old granite villages of Lacken and Ballyknocken.”
Now for the real story: we (4 Americans, 2 Germans and us), were assigned our horses: I have an 8 year old Irish cob named Sunny Boy, and Sally has a Chestnut mare called Lacey. Around 10:45 we headed out with our guides Aoife and Tanya. We went down country roads, past fields with horses or cattle or sheep grazing.
Turned into the forest and wound our way up to the top of the mountain and stopped to take pictures of the vista below: fields, hedges and villages.
When we passed the castle ruins we knew we were close to our lunch stop and sure enough soon the ivy covered Kilteel Inn came into view.
After lunch Terry (our driver) drove us to the next trailhead and we headed up another mountain until we overlooked Blessington Lake. The trail down was a narrow rocky path, boggy at times, past more sheep, cattle and horses with foals. There was cotton grass growing in one area, then heather and wild rhodos.
Went through a gate, and down a tiny country lane, with moss covered rock walls on either side, plus blackberries, wild roses, foxgloves and other flowers.
Finally we rode through the tiny village of Lackan, which consists of a general store, church, pub and houses. It was a great first day, sunny then cloudy, a bit of wind, but no rain. Anthony our horse wrangler was waiting with the lorry (big truck/horse trailer), and we repaired to the pub. The horses go back to the riding centre for the night.

Photo: CC by Just chaos

On to the riding centre

2008-06-29T06:44:00.000-07:00

We were picked up at our Dublin hotel by Terry, an older gentleman with a great sense of humour, who would be our driver for most of the week, and were taken to the village of Kill (Kil means church) and to our B&B. Right next door was the Kill International Equestrian Centre, so we walked over there and spent a pleasant afternoon watching a horse show in the outdoor arena, and then some lesson in one of the three indoor arenas.
Walked to the town and had dinner with the rest of the group (it was pre-arranged).

Photo: CC by Mariko

Day in Dublin

2008-06-28T06:35:00.000-07:00

What a great day! We saw the Book of Kells at Trinity College, which was amazing, then went upstairs to the Old Library (incredible); the exhibit now is Medieval texts. From there we walked to the tourist office which is in a very old church with beautiful stained glass windows; we were having tea upstairs in Finn MacCools Cafe when an impromptu choral concert started on the balcony at the other end!
Visited the Guinness Storehouse; at the top they have the Gravity Bar, - it's glass and has a fabulous 360 degree view of the city! We were enjoying our complimentary draft when a men's choir from Denmark started singing right beside us; they were good!
We carried on with our City Bus Tour (hop on and off) and now are back to where we started, resting up for the Literary pub crawl which starts soon. We go to four pubs and actors recite famous Irish writers works.

Photo: CC lyng883

Travelling

2008-06-27T05:47:00.000-07:00

Had a good flight to London and managed to sleep quite a bit. Our second flight to Dublin was delayed, so by the time we took the bus downtown and checked into our hotel it was about 8p.m. Walked around a bit and got our bearings.

Photo: CC by Robbie1

Heading home

2008-03-07T08:56:00.000-08:00

Well loyal readers, we head home this afternoon via Houston, arriving after midnight. Thanks for following along as we travelled, and special thanks to those of you who sent encouraging emails; it was good to know we weren't talking to thin air!
We've really enjoyed Belize and its diversity and warmhearted people. Of course it was fabulous having our friends Debra and Phil hosting us, creating our itinerary and giving us so much information and advice.
So we're signing off for now; until next time!
M and B

Short but fun flight

2008-03-06T17:42:00.000-08:00

We decided to fly from Placencia back to Belize City, rather than take the bus. The flight, if you fly during the week and pay cash for your ticket, is $50.00 US each, versus a 7 hour bus ride (on school buses with little leg room).
We flew Maya Island Air, in a 12 seat Cessna. Our plane hurtled down the runway, lifting off just at the last moment, or so it seemed, over the road and out over the sparkling blue ocean, banking left and gaining altitude.
We had great seats right behind the pilot, and could watch him checking his paperwork and text messaging as we cruised along. We took pictures of Hopkins as we passed by.
Seven minutes later we were approaching Dangriga, preparing to land on what looked like an impossibly small runway - but we did, and one of the passengers we picked up got to sit in the co-pilot seat!
Again we were over the beautiful water, and fifteen minutes later we were approaching Belize City municipal airport; again the runway looked so tiny, this time running parallel to the water, only a few yards away. Soon we'd landed, and Phil kindly picked us up. It was so much fun to fly on a little plane on a beautiful sunny day.

Another day in and on the water

2008-03-05T07:51:00.000-08:00

Another day of snorkling, this time to the Silk Cayes, just inside the Barrier Reef, a 45 minute boat ride from Placencia. Besides us there were 2 couples from France, who hadn't met before! Our boat driver Leo was also our guide and cook.
The Silk cayes are 3 tiny islands, and we went to the largest one: it had 12 coconut palms, 6 picnic tables, a BBQ pit and washrooms. Three large catamarans were anchored offshore, and a boat full of scuba divers came by and stopped to have their lunch, so at noon the island was positively crowded!
While Leo prepared lunch we snorkled on our own all around the island, and besides colourful fish, we saw a squid.
After lunch we had a demonstration of how to crack open a coconut, and ate some.
Then we went over to two fishing boats; they anchor and men in dugout canoes go out to fish and dive for conch, then come back to the big boat to clean the fish.
We snorkled around the boats and saw lots of nurse sharks, and two kinds of rays: spotted eagle rays and huge grey Caribbean sting rays.
Then a turtle swam by, with 2 ramoras under him. We followed, and could see the barnacles on his back - his shell was about four feet long!
People from the catamarans came over to buy fish for their dinner - can't get it much fresher than that.
In the village after dinner we watched some Garifuna drumming: one man with shakers, 2 on handmade drums, and one playing turtle shells (hanging from his neck).
It's going to be hard to leave this part of Belize; this was our last full day here.
Such beautiful cayes, white sand beaches, warm sun, and warm clear saltwater. All itchy bug bites are forgotten when you float and swim, look through your mask and are mesmerized by the whole other world below the surface.

Snorkling

2008-03-04T18:18:00.000-08:00

Went out by boat to Laughing Bird Caye; there was less wind than we've had, and clear skies, so a good day for snorkling. It took about half an hour to get to the caye, a national park and now a World Heritage Site. We were surprised to see a little building on the tiny island - two rangers stay there for 3 weeks at a time and then get a week off. Saw lots of pelicans fishing.
We were a group of 11: us, two from England, and the rest Americans. We snorkled the west side then came in for lunch: a BBQ on the beach, then snorkled the east side, which was much deeper water, and saw a huge spiny lobster, a ray, barracuda, as well as the usual beautiful fish.

South to Placencia

2008-03-03T17:45:00.000-08:00

We flagged down the local bus, which went up to the Southern Highway, past banana and orange trees, then turned onto the potholed dirt road down the peninsula. Went past an Aquaculture place (they farm shrimp here). Sometimes the land was so narrow we could see the ocean on one side and the lagoon on the other. The road goes around the end of the small airport runway, and saw a sign that says traffic must yield to planes taking off and landing.
We settled into our beachfront hotel and looked around the village. A small sidewalk goes north and south, with paths going the other way to the main road, so it's easy to walk everywhere.

Relaxing time

2008-03-02T18:41:00.000-08:00

We had a very relaxing weekend in Hopkins, reading in the hammocks, watching rain squalls, and pelicans diving for fish, swimming when the sun came out, and walking on the beach.
On the small beach access road beside us, local kids played marbles, as well as spirited soccer games, with tin cans for goal posts. Then they'd run down and jump in the water.