Plaza de Espana and the University of Seville

We took the tram down to the Plaza de Espana, built as the Spanish pavilion for the World's Fair here in 1929. It's a giant semi-circle, with a moat, a fountain, and a huge plaza. Beautiful tiles represent each province of Spain, from A to Z.

Later we walked to the nearby University of Seville, which is housed in the old Royal Tobacco Factory. We each had a lemon Fanta in the student cafe, full of students with laptops; the cafe is a modern corner (modern tables, chairs and large glass doors) in an old building, but with marble floors. 



Brad on the Plaza de Espana

Our search for a laundromat led us past this great cafe where we enjoyed a snack and conversation

Inside the cafe were the usual hams hanging by a foot...

The Cathedral in Seville

The largest Gothic cathedral in the world is here is Seville. It's truly enormous! The tomb of Christopher Columbus is here; he died in 1506 and was first buried in Spain, then moved to the Dominican Republic, and on to Cuba. Once Cuba gained its' independence, his remains were sent back to Spain, to Seville. Doubts about whose bones were really in the tomb were laid to rest once and for all when DNA testing was done.

Beside his tomb is a giant mural of St. Christopher. In the Ornaments Room, we saw the jewelled crown, Spain's most valuable, with 11,000 precious stones. The enclosed choir space, with carved wooden choir chairs, is a separate area across from the high alter.

This church also has enormous columns, beautiful stained glass, and a large baptismal font in a side chapel that's still used today. Under glass, in a climate controlled display case, is the silk pennant Ferdinand III had raised over the mosque that once stood here (and was razed to make way for the cathedral), on November 23, 1248, when Christian forces expelled the Moors from Seville.

This gives you a sense of the size of the Cathedral

At last it was time to climb up the Giralda Bell Tower; it's 330' tall, and instead of stairs has a brick ramp - it was designed for riders on horseback - they would ride up five times a day to give the Muslim call to prayer, as it was formerly a Moorish minaret.

Detail on the crown

There were interesting views from the top - we could see down into the Alcazar where we were yesterday, we picked out Plaza Nueva, that we walk through every day to and from our hotel, we could see the river, and so on.  Just before we left, Brad asked an employee where we might find a good place for lunch, and were told of El Casario. We followed her directions, found the little street, and almost walked right by the tiny unassuming restaurant. With only 8 small tables and 8 stools at the long wooden bar, it was a bustling, very full place. Luckily two women left and we took their places at the bar. We ordered a salad, green beans with ham, and a fish dish, all to share.  "No fish today! It's Monday" we were told. This is because the fishers don't go out on Sunday, so there's no fish in the market. They only serve fresh fish! It was a very authentic place, with delicious food, full of locals; a real find!



Looking down from the bell tower to the Alcazar
 

Cake in a bakery window

One Seville museum and the Alcazar

Part of the museum is in this former church

This morning we visited the Museo de Bellas Artes, an art museum in a beautiful building that was once a church and convent. It has Andalucia's top paintings, by Spanish masters Murillo and Zurbaran. It's a perfect setting for religious art; Murillo (1617 - 1682) was a very popular painter, and his art adorned churches both in Spain and in the Americas.

We walked down to the river and along the walking / cycling path, then up to the city centre again. Yesterday we saw street performers "levitating" - today we saw two really dressed for the part. When he heard you drop coins in the metal container, he gave the thumbs up sign.
 

In the afternoon we walked through the Alcazar, or Royal Palace, re-built by King Pedro I in the 14th Century. It's a fusion of Islamic and Christian styles. One cube-shaped room called the Hall of the Ambassadors had a domed ceiling that was incredible. Another impressive room was the Hall of Tapestries upstairs - one giant tapestry, of wool and silk, was an upside down map, with Africa at the top and Italy at the bottom!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yarn bombing in Plaza Nueva

Part of the garden behind the Alcazar palace

 



Seville

A two hour direct bus ride was all it took to escape the bitter cold of Ronda, a beautiful hill town. Seville is at a lower elevation, and a lot warmer; we even sat at an outside table for lunch. The first thing we noticed about Seville, other than the temperature, was how bike friendly it is. We also enjoyed lots of street performers, probably out in force since it was a Saturday.

 

Cyclists gather - notice the beer - we're not in BC anymore...

Hip hop on the Plaza Nueva, by the Seville Dance Center students

Performer getting ready...

This is the one fellow above; the woman's feet are actually his hands in the boots...

Stylin' dog out for a Saturday afternoon walk...