Tuesday 17 September 2019

Saint Mark's Basilica and other adventures

Today our first stop was Saint Mark's Basilica - we joined the throngs of people going inside for the hour that the interior is lit, between 11:30 and 12:30.  We had made sure we were dressed modestly - no bare shoulders or bare knees, according to the rules for visiting churches in Italy.

The interior is truly breathtaking, with gold mosaics, inlaid marble floors, carved columns, Byzantine icons and towering domes. A lot of what adorns both the outside and inside is from the time when Venice was a maritime power and fleets brought back the spoils of war, often from Constantinople (now Istanbul).  The style of the basilica has been called "Early Ransack."

Taken from upstairs, looking towards the altar
The four bronze (97% copper) horses from about 175 BC were moved inside to protect them from the elements.

Gold leaf was baked onto small glass cubes to make the mosaic tiles, then they were pressed into the plaster.   They capture and reflect light; the glow given off symbolizes the Devine light of heaven.

Time for a snack and coffee
Entering Cafe Florian is like stepping back in time.  It opened on St. Mark's Square in 1720 and claims to be the oldest cafe in the world.

We took a vaporetto across the Grand Canal to go up the church tower there, as guidebooks say it lacks the long lineups for other towers and provides a view of Venice and St. Mark's square from across the water.  But alas, the tower was closed for renovation!  So much of Venice is old and crumbling and in need of renovation.

We went instead into an art gallery close by, and found a free and delightful exhibit of altered texts, maps and even globes, plus other art.  All done by Emilio Isgro, an Italian artist and writer.

Altered globes, map and text on the wall behind

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